One pattern lots of sizes.
Since this pattern is adjustable you can use any yarn with an appropriate hook. The brown one is 8 strands of a 3ply yarn the blue one, is using 2 strands of a yarn that Graham has plied for me, each is approximately double knitting. So as long as you have some big hooks you can make the yarn as thick as you like.
Base of the Bag
make a magic circle.
row 1: 3ch, counts as first treble, 10 tr in magic circle. ss in top of 3ch. (11 stitches)
row 2: 3ch, 1tr in base of ch, 2 tr in each stitch to end, ss in top of 3ch. ( 22 stitches )
row 3: 3ch, 2tr in next stitch, (1tr in next stitch, 2tr in next stitch ) repeat 10 times, ss in top of 3ch
row 4: 3ch, 1tr, 2 tr in next stitch, (2tr, 2 tr in next stitch ) repeat 10 times, ss in top of 3ch (44 stitches.)
row 5: 3ch, 2tr, 2tr in next stitch ( 3tr, 2 tr in next stitch ) repeat 10 times, ss in top of 3ch
These 5 rows form the base of the bag and determine the diameter of the bag. If you want a bigger bag you can make more increase rows and adding one to the number of trebles between increases in each. This is shown highlighted in yellow. So row 6 would be 4 trebles, row 7 would be 5tr etc.
Sides of the bag
This part is worked in a spiral so after row 1 you will not need the 3ch at the start of the row, and you never need to join with a ss.
round 1: 2ch ( yes I do mean 2ch and mark this with a stitch marker ), using the back loops only, work one tr in each stitch until you reach your stitch marker. move stitch marker up
round 2: work one tr in the gap between the 2ch and the first tr of the previous row, then work a tr between the trebles of the row below all round.
rounds 3 to 15: work one treble in each gap between the trebles of the previous row,
To make the bag taller just keep going round and round until it is how you like it.
Round 16: 1dc in each treble
Round 17 : If you have made the bag according to the pattern insert a stitch marker at the beginning of this round: (9dc, dc 2tog) x 5 you should now have 50 stitches.If you changed the diameter of the base by having fewer or more increase rounds you will need to do a bit of arithmetic which is explained later.
Round 18 : dc in each stitch
Round 19: ( ch 12, miss 10dc, work 15 dc ) x 2 - this is the start of the bag handles. Note these numbers will be different if you changed the number of rows in the base.
(work one dc in each dc and work 12 dc around the 12ch) x 2
The Science bit or how to change the size of the bag: you can ignore this entirely if you are following the pattern as it is.
In round 17 if you made 6 rows in the base (9dc, dc 2tog) x 5 this becomes x 6, if you only did 4 rows then it is x 4 etc. In each case you will reduce the number of stitches by the number of rows you did in the base. So if you did 6 rows you start with 66 and will have 60 stitches left after this row. If you only did 4 rows you start with 44 stitches and will have 40 after this row.
In round 19: (ch 12, miss 10 dc, work [half the number of stitches - 10] dc). repeat once. Example : if you did 6 rows you should now have 60 stitches half of this = 30 take away 10 =20 so you would work 20 dc between the 12 ch loops.
Continue as per pattern.
It is really much easier if you use algebra but I know this word sends many people into fear and revulsion so I have explained as best I can in words - but for those of you who find algebra exciting and useful ...
Look away now if you find algebra disturbing.
let n be the number of rows in the base
round 17: (9dc, dc 2tog) x n you should now have n x 10 stitches
round 19: ( ch 12, miss 10dc, work [10n/2 -10 ]dc ) x 2 - this is the start of the bag handles.
Continue as per pattern.
The flower on the brown bag is from the book 'Crochet Bouquet' by Suzann Thompson.
If you try this pattern please let us know if there are mistakes or if you could do with a clearer explanation.